Service

AC & Heating Repair

Stay comfortable in every Spokane season — AC recharge, compressor repair, heater core service, and climate control diagnostics.

Spokane asks a lot of a climate control system. Summers run well into the nineties and a working air conditioner stops being a luxury somewhere around July, while winter regularly drops below freezing and a heater that only produces lukewarm air is a genuine safety issue when you cannot clear a windshield.

We diagnose and repair both sides of the system at All Motors Center, on cars, trucks and diesels.

Air conditioning

An air conditioning system is sealed. If it is low on refrigerant, it has a leak — refrigerant is not consumed in normal operation. This matters because the recharge-and-hope approach is genuinely wasteful: you pay for refrigerant that will be in the atmosphere within weeks, and venting it is against federal regulations.

We find the leak first. That means an electronic leak detector, UV dye where appropriate, and pressure testing the system. Common failure points are the compressor shaft seal, the condenser at the front of the vehicle where road debris and winter road treatment attack it, O-rings and line fittings, the evaporator inside the dash, and the service ports themselves.

Once it is repaired, we evacuate the system under vacuum to boil off moisture, hold the vacuum to prove it is sealed, then recharge by weight to the manufacturer's specification. Charging by weight rather than by pressure gauge matters — an overcharged system cools poorly and can damage the compressor.

We work with both R-134a and the R-1234yf refrigerant used in newer vehicles.

Symptoms worth booking for: air that is cool but not cold, cooling that fades on a long drive or in stop-and-go traffic, a compressor clutch that cycles rapidly, a musty smell from the vents, water on the passenger floor, or a rattle or squeal when the AC is switched on.

Heating

Weak or no heat usually comes down to one of a few things. Low coolant is the first and simplest, and it means there is a leak somewhere. A thermostat stuck open lets the engine run cool so there is never enough heat to give the cabin — often accompanied by a temperature gauge that sits lower than usual and a check engine light. A partially blocked heater core restricts flow, and typically shows as heat on one side of the vents and not the other. A failed blend door actuator, which is common and often announces itself with a repetitive clicking behind the dash, means the system cannot direct air correctly regardless of how hot the coolant is.

A defroster that will not clear the windshield promptly is worth treating as urgent rather than as an inconvenience.

Airflow and cabin air

If airflow is weak at every setting, the cabin air filter is the first thing to check and one of the most neglected items on any vehicle. If the blower only works on the highest setting, that is almost always the blower motor resistor — a small, inexpensive part.

A musty smell when the AC starts is usually microbial growth on a damp evaporator, and a plugged evaporator drain is often behind the wet passenger carpet that comes with it.

Call (509) 655-7715 to book an inspection.

What You Get

  • Electronic leak detection before any recharge
  • Evacuate, vacuum-test and recharge by weight
  • R-134a and R-1234yf systems
  • Compressor, condenser and evaporator replacement
  • Heater core, thermostat and coolant leak repair
  • Blend door actuator and blower motor faults
  • Cabin air filter service
  • Cars, light trucks and diesels

How It Works

  1. 1Confirm the symptom and measure system pressures and vent temperature
  2. 2Leak test electronically, with UV dye where appropriate
  3. 3Identify the failed component rather than just adding refrigerant
  4. 4Give you a written estimate before work begins
  5. 5Repair the leak or replace the component
  6. 6Evacuate under vacuum, hold to prove the seal, recharge by weight
  7. 7Verify vent temperature and correct operation across all settings

Frequently Asked

My AC just needs a recharge, right?

If it is low, it has a leak — refrigerant is not consumed in normal operation on a sealed system. Recharging without finding the leak means paying for refrigerant that will be gone in weeks, and venting refrigerant is against federal regulations. We find the leak first.

Why is my AC cool but not cold?

Commonly a low charge from a leak, but it can also be a failing compressor, a blocked condenser, a stuck expansion valve or an electrical control fault. Measuring system pressures and vent temperature tells us which, and they lead to very different repairs.

Why does my AC stop cooling in stop-and-go traffic?

Usually reduced airflow across the condenser — a failed cooling fan, or a condenser blocked with debris. It can also indicate an overcharged system. It is a real fault, not just the system struggling in the heat.

Why do I have no heat in winter?

Most often low coolant from a leak, a thermostat stuck open so the engine never reaches temperature, a partially blocked heater core, or a failed blend door actuator. Heat on one side of the vents but not the other points at the heater core; a repetitive clicking behind the dash points at the actuator.

What's the musty smell when I turn on the AC?

Usually microbial growth on a damp evaporator core, often alongside a plugged evaporator drain — which is also what puts water on the passenger floor. Both are fixable, and a fresh cabin air filter is part of the answer.

My blower only works on high. What is that?

Almost always the blower motor resistor. It is a small and inexpensive part, and a straightforward repair on most vehicles.

Do you service the newer R-1234yf refrigerant?

Yes, we work with both R-134a and the R-1234yf used in newer vehicles. They require separate equipment and are not interchangeable.

We cover the greater Spokane area and North Idaho — see the areas we serve.